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01 August 2007 @ 04:48 pm
OK, i am back in America, but due to the whole pen drive thing, I haven't been able to post my back entries. Let the retroactive journaling begin!

”Another )”Da )”climbing )
”More ) ”Transport )
”Da )”Tibetan )”Nepali )
 
 
25 June 2007 @ 03:07 pm
Well, first to respond to one question: you pass the scarves on to someone else

Mymother also commented on Will's wonderful laugh.

Well mom. He got the last laugh, thats for damn sure.

Before I left for India, MR Roth told me that I needed to be fluent in tibetan so that some day, when the Karmapa came to America, I would translate. I didn't take him too seriously.

Then I found out that there were rumors (still rumors, it seems, rather than riality) that the Karmapa WOULD be coming to america soon. I RUSHED to improve my Tibetan, taking extra lessons every day for 2 months.

He was INSISTENT that I be ready.

Then, a few days ago he died.

Yesterday I called up Lama Thupten (one of the Karmapa's secretaries) tomake sure the Karmapa had gotten the message regarding Will. Lama Thupten assured me that he had and told me my brother and I would ahve an audience. I found out the time and date and waspleased that it was a very convenient time.

Then the clincher:

"Oh, and Amalia, I am sorry but there not going to be a translator. If your brother doesn't speak Tibetan, you will have to translate"

Nice one, Mr.Roth. you win.
 
 
24 June 2007 @ 11:47 am
OK, so the back up posts won't go up until I am back in America. SOrry. A nepali pop star *cough*rajanishan*cough* has forgotten to return my pin drive.

So I have returned again from Nepal and I am now in Delhi.

What was it I wanted to talk about...

oh yeah, Tibetan mourning culture and melted chocolate, and ambassador taxis.

OK,well to start this update, during my 2 week trip to Nepal, 2 of my close friends died. The first, Tendar, 48, died of lung cancer. I had known him very well in New York City and he was always calling me to check up on me during my first year of college (when I was VERY unhappy with my school.) He would often let me stay on the couch of his apartment when I needed a place to crash inNYC, he would take me to the bus station at 2 AM so that I didn't have to go alone, and he even got me EXCELLENT seats fr me and my friends to see the Dalai Lama in rutgers. He was quiet and shy, but a wonderful person and I will miss him a great deal.

The second friend was Will Roth. Mr. Roth has been my neighbor since i was a baby. He and his wife ran the local Karma Kagyu Tibetan Buddhist center in our town and it was them who first introduced me to Tibet, Tibetan Buddhism, culture, language and so on. I can confidently say that without him, I would DEFINITELY not be here, in India, speaking Tibetan, practicing Buddhism, singing in Tibetan and doing all of these things with my life which bring me so much joy. After my parents, Mr. Roth was probably the most influential person in my life. He was, and anyone in my family will agree, a part of the family. Due to him (and also Mrs. Roth who I cannot wait to see when I come home) we have had rinpoches in our house, plates stolen (and later returned) and the best Buddhist Christmas parties EVER. I could talk to him about anything and I truly think that he was MORE excited about my trip to India than I was. I hope he knows that his goal for me, to be able to speak in Tibetan so well that I could talk to Rinpoches without a translator, has come true, and I thank him for being a driving force.

I also need to thank Mr Roth of inducting me into the "What the hell do we do with all these white silk scarves" club. He named it. Not me. Thank you Mr Roth, I have about 39 here in India.

And thank you for all the weird and funny stories I now have, almost all of which include the phrase "And then this monk..."
And the professional prayer team (led by HE Situ Rinpoche and HH Karmapa) is on the job!

You both will be (and already are) truly missed.

(further updates later)
 
 
12 May 2007 @ 10:06 am
And a special treat

YOU KNOW YOU’VE BEEN IN MCLEOD GANJ TOO LONG WHEN....
-You consider mosquitos “Catch-and-Release Only”
-You feel completely comfortable discussing the color, consistency and frequency of your fecal matter...
-With complete strangers
-It’s not yoghurt, its curd
-You take shots of Pepto Bismol straight out of the bottle and consider it “refreshing”
-You can name and identify all of the symptoms of all of the known intestinal track diseases and parasites
-...And Typhoid
-You accidentally talk to westerners, indian store owners, rickshaw drivers, and so forth in Tibetan
-It’s not the hospital, it’s the Menkhang
-The Amdo boys actually consider you off-limits
-The Khampa boys actually consider you fair-game
-You look forward to the food on airplanes, because you don’t have to worry about the water it’s washed in
-You frequently need to use the phrase “Ani lo mateberet ivrit” (I don’t speak hebrew)
 
 
 
05 May 2007 @ 03:41 pm
A few photos from the photo shoot at bhagsu



more pictures behind the cut )
 
 
 
23 April 2007 @ 10:35 pm
HUGE journal entry

March 3, 2007
Saturday
Om Hotel, Mcleod Ganj

I woke up at 8 this morning to find that, due to miscommunication, my roommate had not woken me up. I got to the teachings on time anyway, actually JUST as His Holiness was saying the refuge prayer. He explained the Jataka tales and Bodhichitta.

For lunch, Julia and I went to the Japanese restaurant in town. It’s actually pretty good (and very safe).

After lunch, I spoke to Lobsang from SFT. It’s freaky, yesterday I kept meeting people who I knew. Like LOTS of people who knew me. Yesterday was insane.

Anyway, so Lobsang wanted me to help make some banners for SFT and told me to head over to TIPA road and he would meet me. Well, he shows up on the road…on a motorcycle.

“so…you expect me to get on the BACK of that right?” was my only comment. Lobsang just nodded. It was FUNNNN. Anyway, when we got up to Lobsang’s place, he and 2 other guys were working on banners. One guy was mute, but communicated with hand signals (not sign language) and was the best painter. I was drawing on shirts. Sichoe (the mute Tibetan) kept signaling that Lobsang and I were a cute couple….which is ridiculous to both of us.

Anyway, Gyatso kept trying to get in touch with me, but was embarrassed that his friends would know he was calling me so he kept talking in Tibetan like he was talking casually to a guy. It was really friggen weird.

So after that, me and a few people went off to Yangdol restaurant and I also met up with ICT Kelsang (not to be mistaken for OM Kelsang, or asshole Kelsang) and ICT Karma. Both ultimately cool dudes. I ended up hanging out with them for a while and I also was interviewed by a journalism student in America who called me.


Sunday,
March 11, 2007

Sorry, things have been really busy and crazy and honestly, I am not going to go into it.

To summarize, I am way to distracted during teachings. March 10th it was pouring, freezing rain and I was not all that happy. And my phone got stolen. Which is pissing me off. I lost BOTH of Rinpoche’s private numbers, Situ Rinpoche’s secretary’s number, Karma Tenzin (Karmapa’s office)’s number…

The list goes on.

Getting Tenam (Situ Rinpoche’s secretary)’s number won’t be hard. Rinpoche’s private lines? That is going to require going back to sherab ling and finding him again, and Karma Tenzin…that might just be a loss.

The evening concert was good though. Due to audience demand, I got to sing 2 songs. The second was Nyin Da Kar Sum, which the WHOLE audience joined in on, at the top of their lungs

Anyway, today I went to teachings. In the afternoon it was announced that, due to a group of students from Mainland China having to leave soon and they wanted the empowerment of 1000 armed Chenrezig. We had preliminary initiation today.

I got to take the refuge and Bodhisattva vows with the Dalai Lama!

Anyway, we got Kusha grass which goes under the pillow and mattress to apparently bring significant dreams.

I really don’t feel like writing and I can’t think of anything particularily memorable.


FRIDAY
March 16, 2007

Alright. Now that the teachings are over there is at least a reasonable chance that I might be able to journal at reasonable intervals. I don’t promise anything though.

So, had lots of teachings and long life prayers for the Dalai Lama. It was raining so it was cold and people were all crushed into the covered area of the Tsuglagkhang courtyard which was pretty uncomfortable. But that was before.

I actually met and chatted with the Dalai Lama’s body guard who was giving me REALLY WEIRD looks the ENTIRE time of the empowerment in Woodstock (as the only inji in the Tibetan section) and he is a very nice fellow.

Onwards. Wednesday, class restarted with afternoon language class. But that morning was prayers for the Dalai Lama, so I hadn’t had breakfast (but I did see 2 oracles in trance!!!) and then instead of lunch I was kidnapped, thrown into a car and driven to Gyuto for the public audience with the Karmapa. I also received Karma Tensing’s number (from the Karmapa’s office) because I ran into him again.

By the time class came around, it had been about 21 hours since my last meal and I was pretty damn hungry. Luckily Gen Norsang La allowed alex and I to have our class at Namgyal Café! Sometimes it is REALLY nice having a class of only two people. Did I mention that one of my classes with Gen Rinzin La we convinced him to have it while walking the Lingkor (Kora)? That was great.

Anyway, after class, I went to TIPA for the concert with Phurbu T Namgyal and Tenzin Gyalpo (Michael.) It was BEYOND sold out! It was INSANE! People were falling out of the doors. I only sang two songs and unfortunately “Kelsang” was also there and he got to sing 3. Yes, I was jealous, but more just ticked that someone who I feel insulted by gets constant praise by others. He is a bastard, really.

Part way through the concert, Namgyal and Michael decided to have the concert AGAIN on Thursday night. So I came back (late) and on the way back was chatting with Jigme and Choedak, two of the other singers. It turns out they didn’t have a place to stay, so, after talking to my group leaders and the Om Hotel staff, they slept in our library. Which was funny because a few minutes after they arrived, Katie walked into my room saying
“Amalia? Do you happen to know why two Tibetan men are asleep in the library?”

I love how they come to me first with that question.

The next day we had culture class. Which Steve led. There was one rather unpleasant moment where Steve was discussing how insulting the word “Hinayana” (literally “Lesser Vehicle” is to represent Theravada (Way of the Elders) practice of Buddhism. And I raised my hand and noted that in Thailand and some other Theravada countries, the people themselves refer to their religion as “Hinayan” and don’t even know the word Theravad. This was something I saw in Thailand and surprised me a LOT. Steve outright told me that I was wrong! I wanted to just be like “Dude, no. You don’t speak Thai or Pali and you have never lived in a Theravada country. Don’t tell me I am wrong.”

Rar

The concert was AGAIN completely sold out. I got to sing 3 songs that time (including one with Yega.) and had a great time. I also got a call from Phil that I would be singing for the Dalai Lama in the morning AND I found out that my parents are coming to India for the Tibetan Music Awards!!! I cannot believe it!

I woke up this morning VERY early. Put on a nice Chupa and went to Namgyal Gonpa. The Dharma Bums and I (playing back up) played as the Dalai Lama entered the temple! He stopped by us and tugged on Phil’s beard, so I was standing about a foot away from him.

Then I was asked by the Toepa/Ngari association to sing on Tuesday and the RTWA to sing tonight at TIPA. I wasn’t sure about the T/N thing because it was on Tuesday during the morning when I have class. At which point they told me that the guests of honor would be His Holiness Sakya Trizin, His Eminence Ling Rinpoche and His Holiness the Karmapa.

I talked to Steve and he said if I was late for (or missed) class, it was acceptable.

I rested a bit in the afternoon, because I am beyond beat, then went to the RTWA show, which was fine.

Tomorrow I am performing at TCV Suja, and on Sunday at TCV Gopalpur. It’s a free ride to Bir. But to give you an idea that’s performances on March 10, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, and 20. They tried to get me to perform on March 19th in Chauntra but I just can’t make it to that show. It’s a pity. Chauntra would be fun!

I am totally, utterly beat. I am going to go to sleep.


SATURDAY
March 17, 2007

I am starting today off early. It’s only 9 PM but I am BEAT beyond belief.

So after breakfast and checking e-mail, I headed to the Taxi stand to meet the other singers. While there, I ran into Dawa, my favorite dude from Cali and Norgay from home. I sat and chilled with Jigme (singer, who rocks) and Kharag Penpa was there. It turns out Jigme and Norgay (not Albany Jigme, let me re-emphasize) are childhood friends! “Kelsang” unfortunately was also coming with us. I quickly gave Norgay the run down on the Kelsang situation. Since Kelsang is a singer, avoiding him is pretty much impossible. Jigme already knew and since this trip would involve extensive travel and time spent with Kelsang, Norgay told Jigme to make sure to protect me if necessary.

Norgay is the best.

We headed off to Suja, but since we took a VERY long route, I didn’t arrive in time to go to Chokling Gonpa or Sherab Ling. Maybe I will go to Sherab Ling tomorrow morning. I don’t know yet.

Kelsang decided to take a nap and as of 6:50, when the show was almost about to start, he was still friggen asleep and not picking up his phone. I was secretly thrilled. Unfortunately he woke up.

The audience was TCV Suja, or the Tibetan Children’s Village in Bir. They LOVED us and were really surprised and happy to see a westerner singing in Tibetan. I even got a really cool fan note! Let me post it here.

(Corrected for spelling but not grammer)

Hello dear singer…
It’s me, one of the students of the TCV School Suja. Today I am here to share you a few words which were came inside mine soul that first and foremost, I feel very happy and glad because of your…Maybe, I am not only who like you and your encouragement (?) but also many of Tibetan people who really like you today. Secondly, to me, I never seen those foreigner (USA and Other) people who enjoyment on expert on our culture so far but today you can really gave me a big shock. It’s very wonderful. Keep it up as long as you alive.
Actually, I am very shy boy, but today I got a very massive knowledge on wisdom from and your company friend singers. From my side I really feel good and surprising too.
Hi, can I make friend with you? If so, please contact through e-mail address


HOW CUTE IS THAT???

Anyway. We had some issues with my tracks during the show, but overall it was good we had students coming on stage and giving us khatas! It was awesome. WHILE we were singing I should note. It’s distracting having to bow while singing in order to have a tiny 6 year old put a scarf around your neck. But it is utterly cool.

After the show, I actually got into a huge fight with “Gyatso” about the Kelsang thing. Basically, he refused to believe that the thing had actually happened, since I was always talking to Kelsang during shows. The fact is, I HAVE to be civil to him during shows! I don’t have to LIKE him but when other singers are around, I have to pretend to be civil, you know? I can’t refuse to perform with him because that would cut out possibly the majority of my performances and open hostility…well I don’t know what would happen.

Anyway, Gyatso telling me he didn’t believe me pushed me over the edge because I was already stressed. It’s one thing having to deal with Kelsang, its another thing having spent the evening watching Kelsang getting pilled high with silk scarves and people fucking adoring him. Then having someone you trust saying they don’t believe you? Gyatso says he was joking but I reamed him out totally.

Anyway, end result was me yelling at Gyatso over the phone and sobbing to Jigme for a while.

I am exhausted and have to write a philosophy paper.

SUNDAY
March 18th, 2007

Gar, so tired. Fortunately I am NOT singing tomorrow. Just resting.

So I woke up early this morning but I couldn’t find a cab to sherabling, so that didn’t work out. I spent most of the day ignoring Kelsang, a pattern I intend to continue. It pisses him off.

We drove to Gopalpur, stopping on the route to help a Tibetan man whose car had driven off the road.

At Gopalpur they were having Mela, or spring festival, which was fun and I got to eat some tasty Tibetan/Indian festival food. In the evening we had our show in a hall, which was huge and cool. I have photos. My tracks were working which made life easier. Afterwords I made transportation plans regarding returning to Dhasa and coming back up to bir. We will have to see.

TUESDAY
March 20th, 2007

OK, so monday morning I got the school jeep back to Mcleod Ganj which was nice and relaxing. It was just me and Tashi, the driver. I was beat, on both a physical and emotional level. I got lunch at Jimmy’s and then went to afternoon language class followed by Philosophy class led by the Dalai Lama’s translator, Geshe Dorje Damdul. Geshe la has a huge passion for physics, especially quantum mechanics. If he had been a science teacher at my school, I might have actually taken and (dare I say it) enjoyed physics! He is hilariously funny, enthusiastic, and generally cool.

When this was done I went off to meet some friends who informed me that today (tuesday) at an ungodly hour of the morning, the nechung oracle would be going into trance. After that, I met one of the Dalai Lama’s body guards for dinner.

This morning, I woke up my roommate at 5:45 and we got all dressed up in Chupa and went to Nechung. TONS of Tibetans were there. Apparently Ling Rinpoche was consulting regarding the Doepa and Ngari Tibetans and their future. Anyway, I didn’t actually get to see the transe, but we did get to see the oracle and recieve Chakne (blessed protection seeds) and a protection cord from him. Again, very very cool.

Then I headed up to TIPA where the Doepa Ngari welfare association was to be putting on performacnes for Sakya Trizin, Trulzhi Rinpoche, the Karmapa and Ling Rinpoche, of whom, only Ling Rinpoche showed up.

I don’t like Doepa musical culture at ALL....and ngari wasn’t really represented. I was really really bored. And I was waiting for Ling Rinpohce. Finally Rinpoche arrived and we all lined up to greet him. Since he is such a high rinpoche, showing up for a show like this, you don’t get a chance to present khata. All of the performers (DOZENS) lined up with khatas and the organizer went to greet Rinpoche. When he went forward, he signalled to me and another girl, Pema to come forward with our Khatas. We were the only solo singers. We went forward and recieved a blessing from Rinpoche who not only gave us the khatas but touched us on the head with his hand (considered a sign of respect) and the organizer personally introduced us. Then Pema sang a beautiful song “Om Mani Peme Hung” and I sang “Nyin Da kar Sum” and right after we finished, it started hailing. I jumped in a jeep and headed down to the Tsuglakhang for afternoon class.

Fortunately, it was just the one hour class, and then I went to sleep for a while. A bunch of us went to Lungta for dinner and after dinner we had group meeting. I hate group meeting. After that I went to the internet cafe and checked e-mail and stuff. Which leads to now. exhausted....


March 21, 2007
WEDNESDAY

So, um. Did I ever tell you my life is weird? Like it’s COOL, don’t get me wrong, but pretty friggen weird.

I slept through the last day of the Tenshung (long life offering) because I was so exhausted and desperately needed sleep. After I woke up, I spoke to the head of the Doepa Ngari organization. He wants to help produce my album! He lives in Nepal and wants to give me a hand, and he wants me, in return, to work with Pema on a video album. Seems like a good deal to me! He also invited me to come with a whole group from the DN org. on a trip to Lhasa and western Tibet, specifically, a pilgrimage to Mount Kailash, one of the holiest sites in the Himalayas to Buddhists and Hindus. I think I might just do it!

Afternoon language class, alex didn’t show up. I don’t know why he didn’t. But when you consider how different we are at language levels, it was nice to have a lesson AT my level. We spoke 95% of the class in Tibetan and I really felt like we could move quickly and well. It was nice.

Afterwords was philosophy with Geshe Dorje Damdul who taught us wonderful things about the relativity of attachment to bell bottoms in his childhood and made us ponder the question “if a tree falls in the forest, and there is no one to here it, is there actually a tree?”

I met with Karma Tensing (the actor playing Norbu in the movie Himalaya) who happens to know my neighbor, Mr. Roth. Afterwords I spoke with Sonam, the director of Tsampa to Pizza and we chatted a bit about his next film and if I would be willing ot sing for the soundtrack (the answer being a resounding YES.) We also talked about emotional impact and dealing with a character with trauma and I gave him an idea that he liked. Then I came back to my room and now I am just relaxing and typing.

March 22
THURSDAY

Lets start by saying, I am homesick and I miss R a LOT.

Lots of frustration today, starting with a bigass migraine. Where to start. I slept through my doctors appointment this morning, which fortunately was no big deal. After breakfast, I attended culture class which was taught by Jon Bellezza, an expert on Ancient Bon which was interesting. I had lunch at Lungta then met Jigme to chat. I tried to buy my air tickets to Nepal but due to computer issues I couldnt. So that failed.

Then, as I am going into philospohy class, my phone rings. The person on the phone identifies themselves as “sonam” and I think its the wrong Sonam, so I basically say “call you later” and hang up. Meanwhile, my phone is going friggen bizerk. So during break, I pick up an I am informed that I am expected at a show at lower TCV at 6:00. Class gets OUT at six. Well, with geshe la, class always runs late. Finally, Geshe la says “to answer this question will take a while, so if you have any hurry, leave now.” So, I dove out the door (something which is NOT cool.)

I grab my shit, jump in a taxi, and get down to TCV where the show is already in progress and, because I am late, I only get to sing one song. “Kelsang” was actually being really nice and caring, but I don’t know why. After the show I confronted him. He has no clue that what he did was wrong. I tried to express it to him and I don’t think he got it, but he apologized. I don’t know if that means jack shit. Whatever, I spoke my peace, and I stayed calm.


March 27th
Wednesday

Another batch of not lazy so much as FRIGGEN BUSY.

So, friday we went to Kangra fort. It was awesome. The weather was gorgeous and the fort is this unbelievable, more than 1000 year old structure that survived numerous sieges, but then was largely destroyed in the earthquake of 1904. We bought Thai food and ate that at the top of the fort. Then we all walked down through the fort and into the woods. We found a small and ancient temple in the fort where a priest gave us a blessing. It was Nava Ratri so it is considered very auspicious. The Goddess of the temple was a local godess and patron goddess of the kings of Kangra.

After walking through the woods, we arrived at a big river. The current was quite strong but the water was pretty warm, and fortunately no one was around so almost all of us jumped right in, in our clothing, and swam for a large part of the afternoon. I did get a foot cramp and I was very worried with the current, but aside from that I was having a blast.

We walked back up to the taxis, bought water, and went back to mcleod ganj. I don’t remember what I did in the evening.

Saturday, I grabbed will and we went to Gyuto to recieve the Karmapa’s blessing. Unlike last time, when we went into the shrine room and lined up and walked past the Karmapa, apparently the shrine room was in use today and that was not possible. It is important to remember that not only is Gyuto not one of the Karmapa’s monasteries, it is not even a Kagyu monastery, so it is of a completely different sect! So basically, not only is the Karmapa under virtual house arrest, but he isn’t even being housed with his own religious group. In short, it means he has very little standing in the monastery where he is staying. So all of us, after getting patted down by security, were pushed into a hallway underneath the shrine room and filed into a tiny room, probably once an office or storage room, with no furniture or decoration, where the Karmapa gave us blessings and we left. It just didn’t seem right or fair to him.

Then Will, my friend Sonam, and I went to the Norbulingka. There I met my friend Lhamo who is an english teacher. She showed us around and let us watch the students working on paintings and even got me a few photocopies from their text book so that I can practice on my own! Eva, unfortunately, was suffering from severe pain in her leg and could not join us.


Sunday morning, I went back to the Norbulingka and met Lhamo. We visited Nyingtobling, which is the home and crafts center for disabled Tibetan children, and I was invited to sing at their 9th anniversary on tuesday. Afterwords, Lhamo took me to see Dolma ling nunnery and then I went back to mcleod ganj.

Monday morning we had philosophy and in the afternoon, in Tibetan, we did review for my midterm.

Tuesday in the morning we had a class on Tibetan iconography which, shockingly, was not very interesting and in the afternoon I had my midterm. Then I left and went to nyingtobling where I sang about ten songs for the kids, who loved it. Some of them came up and sang as well. It was a lot of fun and I met a bunch of interesting people. I was then presented with a handpainted card and a beautiful scroll painting of “the four harmonious friends” which was made by the kids.

In the evening we had our group meeting and I wrote my philosophy paper.

Today we woke up early in the morning and headed to Tashi Jong for the Tsechu Cham, or ritual masked dances for the 10th day of the 2nd month of the Tibetan year. It is a Guru Rinpoche day, so it represents an important event in Padmasambhava’s live. Unfortunately the heat made sitting outside unbearable, so after not too long, Taylor and I grabbed a cab and went to Sherabling. I called lama Tenam (Situ Rinpoche’s secretary) to tell him that I was coming, which ended up being a very fortunate thing.

I also decided to try and get a brief audience with Gangkar Rinpoche and I also helped taylor get his room at Sherabling. We were told to go straight to Gangkar Rinpoche’s room and when we arrived a monk had us sit in the parlor area of his suite and served us orange soda in beautiful porcelain teacups. We were told that Rinpoche would take a few minutes, so we just sat and drank our orange soda.

Suddenly a lama busted in, said something very quickly about coming to see Situ Rinpoche and signalled for us to leave. The monk assistant of Gangkar Rinpoche helped us to our feet and we had to run to catch this lama who was halfway down the stairs by the time we reached the door.

Due to the arrival of Tenga Rinpoche from Nepal, Situ Rinpoche unexpectedly had to attend a Puja. However, Lama Tenam recalled how I wanted to meet Situ Rinpoche, contacted the office who remembered sending me up to see Gangkar Rinpoche. We were told we would have very little time with Rinpoche and we came in ready to present khatas, thank him for assisting my neighbor when he was sick (from the religious point of view of assistance) and leave. Rinpoche, however, was interested to talk with us. Not only did he ask me about Will (my neighbor) but asked both of us about our studies. When he found out I was a singer, he mentioned that he composed many songs (or more accurately poems) in Tibetan and English. Before long, we had Rinpoche reciting beautiful poetry in English. It was really amazing. This lasted for about 10 minutes when another lama came in and politely, but firmly, reminded Rinpoche of the Puja. Rinpoche quickly turned and addressed me privately in Tibetan, aware that Taylor couldn’t speak it, and we spoke for a minute about my studies of Tibetan. He laughed at my statement “Nga kechashey thup gi yoe, yinayang nga gejurshey thup gi me” (I can converse, but I can’t translate. Apparently it sounds amusing in Tibetan.)

After we left, we folded our Khatas to present again to Gangkar Rinpoche. He seemed pleased to see us and definitely remembered me and I think remembered Taylor from the last time we were at Sherabling. Unfortunately, he also had to attend the Puja so it was present khata, answer one quick question to be polite (him asking us) and run. Well, we got to sit and drink more orange soda, but he had to run.

After this we went back to the office and arranged taylor’s room. I provided translation assistance.

As usual I was wearing a chuba with jeans underneath. The lama talking to us had been joking earlier about me being a Tibetan girl. Then he saw the jeans. All of a sudden he looked quite firm and said “You are NOT a Tibetan girl! This is not acceptable! Next time you come to sherabling, you wear a petticoat under that!”

It was bizarre. This is the second time a lama at sherabling has gotten rather upset and the jeans under Chupa. Jeez. Most people don’t even see it. So yeah, need to invest in a petticoat or stop wearing Chupa to sherabling. BTW, the other lama was Gangkar Rinpoche.

Then we came back to mcleod Ganj and went to Kokonor Restaurant to celebrate Dan and Rachel’s birthday. Tomorrow I leave for Delhi and then on saturday for Kathmandu. Not done packing. Oh well.\


April 11
Wednesday
Mcleod Ganj

Well, today was a weird day. Classes started again, spent time comforting one student who is experiencing utter hell right now. one of her close friends comitted suicide. Then in the afternoon my mom calls to tell me her surgery is done and that apparently they discovered cancer in there.

Yeah. Fun day.

Fortunately, after that we had an audience with Pakchok Rinpoche who actually adressed the two of us directly with advice on how, emotionally, to deal with these issues and actually use the emotions to build compassion not only for our friends/mothers but for all sentient beings who are suffering. He was very straight forward, really taking the time to talk to us. It was, I think, good for both of us and very necessary. He will also be doing prayers for my mom and the girl’s friend.

But honestly, I really don’t want to talk about today...and I don’t really want to go to sleep either even though it is almost midnight, so instead I will write about my trip to Nepal.

Nepal: March 31
I navigated my way through the KTM airport by myself, got my bags, and went to the parking lot. i didn’t really know what to expect, so I was thrilled to find someone carrying a placard reading “AMALIA RUBIN (Nima Rumba’s Friend)” and I was bedecked with a flower garland. (BTW, Nima Rumba is a big Nepali pop star.) I found that pretty funny.

I found out I wouldnt get to hang out with Nima (who i sang with back in New York and Toronto) until evening, so, for the day, i decided to go wandering. I got lost, found a thangka school, a monastery and finally Kathmandu Durbar Square, which is a series of temples and palaces. Absolutely beautiful.

I came back to the guesthouse to find the managers little sister, Manjita, preparing gifts for Nima. It turns out she is pretty much his BIGGEST FAN and was so thrilled that he would be coming. Nima came and we chatted and had a lovely time and he took me out for Korean food for dinner. Then he took me to Swayambunath stupa, which is right where he group up. it was night, so it was quiet and very calm. Other than a famous Nepali VJ who was out with some friends, we encountered no one. Nima told me the legend of the creation of the Kathmandu valley by Manjushri and remembered his childhood at the Stupa. I just enjoyed the calm and the wonderful company of a friend I had not seen in months.

On the route over, Nima actually hit some other guys car, and the guy wasn’t pissed...mostly cuz it was Nima and Nima is famous. Nima still paid for the Damages tho.

April 1st
I had a great breakfast at the guest house and then decided to meet my friend Ananda who I had not seen in about a year. She got lost on route but finally we met up in Thamel. Unfortunately, Ananda is a rather obsessive shopper so it was pretty impossible to go anywhere. I got my eyebrows threaded and then we decided to go visit Boudha. Little did we know that it was Tamang Jatri, a big festival for the tamang people of Nepal. interesting fact, Tamang people came from Tibet as part of a cavalry group to fight some war or another. Tamang comes from the Tibetan words “Ta Mak” (Horse Soldier.) Anyway, Boudha was a mob seen. Then we went and got REAL, GOOD japanese food for dinner. OMG. Amazing.

April 2nd

I didn’t really do anything until i saw Nima at 4. He introduced me to Rajan Ishan, who is now my music arranger. Little did I know that Rajan is a bit of a hot item! Apparently he is a pop singer turned arranger who also did the music arranging for Mingma Sherpa’s hit songs “Namuna” and “Chham Chham.” He also was doing arranging for one of th songs for the Miss Nepal Pageant. Very very cool dude.

Then Nima and I headed over to Boudha and went to a cafe and met Tsering Gyurmey. Gosh, I had missed Tsering. This trip to Nepal was like a reunion. Tsering’s band leader, Pema, also showed up, as well as a nepali Wushu champion (life is strange.) Anyway, everyone at the table was either Tibetan, Tamang or Me. But they were insisting on speaking Nepali. finally, frustrated I announced “OK, guys? There are TWO possible languages that you could be speaking that EVERYONE at this table would understand. TWO. Nepali is NOT one of them!”

This got a stare, until Nima said “OK, speak Tibetan, Amalia.” So I did. Apparently I speak well. Tsering was struck into silence. Finally he stuttered out a “Wow, that’s good” and we decided to continue in Tibetan and English. They started to order food, and I remembered it was Tsewa 15, so I can’t eat meat. Nima was surprised that I rememberrd and a bit ashamed. As he said, his father is a Lama but he would forget Buddhist dates like Tsewa 15. Which was when I suddenly realized it was Pesach.

*facepalm* totally missed the WORLD’S LARGEST SEDER at Chabad KTM. Damn.

Anyway, after this, Nima took me for 1 circumambulation around Boudha and then we went to Patan Durbar Square at around Midnight, which was awesome. Some places are way cooler at night.

April 3

I spent all day at the Studio. I met some other famous singers like Yash Kumar and Susan Lama. Yash invited me to sing with him on his next album, which seemed cool, and Rajan and I managed to complete 2 songs in one day. In the evening I met Yash for dinner and we discussed the song he wants me to do.

April 4-9

More studio time. Really photos sumarize best. I also met Mingma Sherpa again.

Sorry, I am summarizing but I have a ton of photos to summarize and it was basically all studio time. Also a lot of stuff is happening now and I would like to catch up.
 
 
11 April 2007 @ 04:29 pm
Back from Nepal, so major photos and journal posting wll be coming soon. But FIRST:

may I present a special photo series that I have entitled

OH DEAR AND UNMERCIFUL GOD! You created carnivorous GOATS??? )
 
 
25 March 2007 @ 08:56 pm
another huge photo post )
 
 
02 March 2007 @ 02:51 pm
photos, part 2 )
 
 
02 March 2007 @ 02:41 pm
Photos from Tso Pema and Sherabling )
 
 
02 March 2007 @ 02:36 pm
there is no otehr version of this entry. Just this shiny public one.

February 28th
Om Hotel
Mcleod Ganj, Dharamsala

Well, yesterday we woke up to rain, which lasted the whole day. Morning culture class was the Dorje Shugden issue and then we were allowe ot go off to lunch. I then met Lobsang Wangyal, founder of the Miss Tibet pageant as well as the Tibetan Music awards, and he treated me to a wonderful lunch at Hotel Tibet. I relaxed during the afternoon, reading a bit and just chilling. In the evening we had dinner at the hotel and then a meeting, which was interrupted by hail on the roof as well as horrible thunder.

I soon discovered that my roommate is terrified of thunder. It’s also totally reasonable. As a child, an arsonist set fire to her house in an effort to murder her family. She and her brother were the only ones home at the time and they were awakened by a sound like a thunder crack. It was actually the downstairs windows exploding. Trapped by the flames, the two children waited alone and in terror until fire fighters came and carried them through the fire to safety. I spent a large portion of the night comforting her. Even into the morning, there was still dramatic and loud thunder. We both woke up to a particularily loud crack and I climbed into her bed and calmed her down.

I was still feeling like crap, but I made it through morning religion class alright, slept through lunch and almost slept through language. Gen Rinzin La saw how crappy I was feeling and kept trying to convince me to go back to sleep. I should have.

After class I got some passport sized photos for my registration for the Dalai Lama’s teachings which are starting soon and my friend Mangtoe invited me to come attend an wedding. The bride was british and the groom was Amdo. I had a blast! As it so happens, the bride had seen my performance at TIPA and was thrilled to have me come to the wedding and asked me to sing. Then I came back to the hotel, and as I am still feeling pretty crappy, I am going to go to sleep nice and early.



March 2, 2007
Om Hotel
Mcleod Ganj, Dharamsala

Well, it had to happen sooner or later. After being in India for nearly 2 months, I was violently ill last night. Fortunately not throwing up, but the other side of the coin, one could say.

My stomach is like steel. As I discovered in Thailand, I can digest virtually ANYTHING, and I have been more careful here than in Thailand, although less careful than is recommended by the paranoid doctors and group leaders of the world. However, what my stomach can NOT deal with is a combination of

1) High altitude (I am at 6,000 feet)
2) Dehydration (my own damn fault)
3) Risky food
4) And last but not least, Antibiotics.
Yep, those heavy duty antibiotics for the bronchitis, which has FINALLY knocked my persistant cough down also took down my stomach. I imagine that’s the main issue, as I haven’t had any other real issues with the altitude and what not.

Right now, I am supposd to be in Philosophy and Discussion class, but after explaining to the teacher that I was up all night sick, and still feeling a bit ticky, she agreed that I should just go back and rest. Once I am done writing this up I will be going to sleep for a while.

Yesterday morning we woke up and to our relief, it was beautiful and sunny. After breakfast, we had culture class in which Thupten Samphel came and discussed the years mleading up to the Chinese invasion of Tibet through the march 10th uprising of 1959. most of us attended class wrapped in our sleeping bags because it was just that damn cold. We have no heat in any of our rooms and I would say its in the 30s here.

I got lunch over at Jimmy’s and then went to afternoon language class at IBD. Norsang (morning class teacher) was our teacher, much to Alex and my dismay, but class was alright. During class it started hailing. Towards the end of class, the hail stopped and Lucy and I decided to find the Chabad of Dharamkot, about a 20 minute, STEEP, MONKEY FILLED hike from Dharamsala.

Lucy is terrified of the monkeys. I just friggen hate them.

While we were walking it started hailing. Fortunately I bought an umbrella. I also ran into Tashi from NYC who might try to help me find a producer for my album, since its going to come to about 1 Lakh RS (100,000 or about $2500) to produce.

Anyway, after an intense, difficult, MONKEY FILLED hike, we arrived in Dharamkot to find that the Chabad here is seasonal, apparently opening in April. Which sucks.

I got online around 7 AM US time in the hopes of catching my mom, but she wasn’t on. Note to mom: 7 AM US time is when I will try to be online once or twice a week!!!

We had group dinner, but by this point I was feeling pretty ill, so I just had some cups of hot water. Hot water is totally my new addiction. I played music with some of the Tibetans and watched my new VCD of a concert in Amdo. Kalsang (not to be mistaken for the notorious Kelsang. This is Kalsang from the OM hotel) is from Derge, where Kunga (the Tibetan popstar I have an intense crush on) is from. Kelsang was telling me that Kunga was coming to Dharamsala for the Dalai Lama’s teachings. He was so convincing (and I was damn sure he was bluffing, but HOPING he wasn’t) that even the rest of the staff was convinced, however, he didfinally admit (to my sorrow) that he was kidding me. Such a pity.

Someday, I will meet Kunga!!!

I am so bad. I am pretty sure you aren’t actually supposed to ACT on celebrity crushes…but when the opportunity arises. And I mean, come on! He is a singer, 24, Buddhist, not a drinker (except socially), brave as all hell, political activist through music. AND he rides a motorcycle. He is my perfect man.

Or that’s what I tell myself.

Oh! We were discussing the Dorje Shugden issue and I brought up the fact that a lot of Tibetans won’t say his name! And Julia goes “Like Voldemort?”

This ended up with us deciding that the Dalai Lama was Harry Potter with Shugden being Voldemort, until we realized the Dalai Lama totally has to be Dumbledore. The Gelugs are Ravenclaw, Kagyus are Gryffindor, Sakyas are the exchange students from Durmstrang, Bon are Hufflepuff, and Nyingmas are Slytherin. Now this was funny cuz Dan is Nyingma, but we had our reasons! Nyingma and Kagyu do a lot of cross over (harry potter being sort of both houses??) and Nyingma are TOTALLY cool, but with a strange reputation for ancient black magic. It was funny cuz Dan was getting joke-angry with us, but even other Nyingmas in the group were like “Yeah, totally slytherin.” It was a unanimous decision.

This went on for a while.

I am sure SOMEONE is gonna get offended by this one hahaha.

OK. I need to rehydrate and go to sleep.
 
 
27 February 2007 @ 04:02 pm
hi! more updating. Again, there will be a less censored version posted on my other journal

thru the rabbit hole )
 
 
23 February 2007 @ 06:26 am
For those of you on my friends list on Kunde_Yidang, an un-edited version of this will (most likely) be posted and I reccomend you read that instead. Sorry that I am not adding other people to that list right now.

One day at a time pt 1 )

part 2 )

part 3 )
 
 
06 February 2007 @ 05:08 pm
2/5/2007
Girls Dormitory, Sarah
Monday

Amalia is a lazy lazy bum! Yep, I got slackish about the journal again. I honestly don’t really think I can catch up. So let me attempt the brief summary.

Wednesday: Had classes, philosophy broke down into a fascinating discussion of Buddhism’s idea of the sense consciousnesses (eye consciousness, ear consciousness, et cetera.) And the fact that the eye consciousness can only see, ear can only hear, et cetera. This would have been a normal discussion had not a few of the students known about my synaesthesia and mentioned “Well, how does Buddhism deal with people who, well, smell shapes for example. Ani la looked baffled and said “Does that really happen?” So I raised my hand and explained that I could see sounds and taste shapes. She was absolutely fascinated by this and we have yet to come up with a satisfactory Buddhist explination for this. Originally the thought would be that the ear consciousness hears the sound and the mental consciousness then interprets it visually, but then I brought up scientific evidence that the eye and ear react simultaneously. So we couldn’t come to a conclusion. It was fascinating though!

Thursday: Classes, discussed monastic culture in culture class, wrote my short paper and interviewed my roommate on her life story. I will post the life story as soon as its done. Let it suffice to say that my guess on her being a political prisoner was correct. Let it also suffice to say the numbers are just to fucking high. (Sorry about the cussing, mom, but I think it’s the only way to properly catch the emotion here.)

Friday: YAYYYYYYYY, now comes the exciting part. After morning classes, Diana, Rachel, Alex, Emily and I hired a cab to Tso Pema (Rewalsar) a sacred pilgrimage site in northern Himachal. It also happens to be only about 150 miles away from Spiti and Lahaul, two Buddhist areas of India. Our cab driver spoke NO english at all, so my classmates were very happy that I knew the indian hand signal for “I have to pee.” The ride took about 5 hours through lovely terrain. You could see the architecture changing to Himalayan/Snow architecture as we moved north. It was fascinating to watch the change in the way people looked and dressed as well. The ride should have taken only 4 hours, but fortunately Ji, as we called our driver, drove slowly and sanely through the mountains. It was a very pleasant drive.

We arrived in Tso Pema at around 7:30 at night and my friend Didi from ithaca (of stealing-my-mother’s-shoes fame) picked us up and brought us over the guesthouse where he was staying. He offered to let us share his room, but we didn’t want to impose, so we went to the front desk and asked about a room. Well, this was a monastery guesthouse. Didi’s single room with the huge bed, spacious bathroom with a western toilet and hot running water (including a shower), TV, wardrobe, coffee table, two chairs and a private balcony, cost RS 250 (about $6.) There was only one room left in the guesthouse, a 2 bed room with a common bathroom. We didn’t mind, of course (although Alex, being the only boy in the group, would stay in Didis room.) So we girls ended up paying RS 80 per night ($1.25.) Split that between 4 people. We each spent less than a dollar on the room, total, for two nights. Didi then took us to the Topchen restaurant where we got AMAZING bowls of tenthuk (absolutely to die for) and chai and we sat around playing music and chatting for a few hours.

We decided to wake up at 9 AM the next day so, needless to say, Alex almost died when he knocked on our door at 7:00 saying “RISE AND SHINE, GIRLS!” The view from our room was right onto the lake. Just across you could see Buddhist pilgrims doing hundreds of prostrations, making kora, or feeding the HUGE catfish. We got breakfast then made Kora and I did 108 full prostrations on the cement area by the lake (specifically for this purpose.) After breakfast we did another Kora, met Ji and drove up into the mountain.

Before I continue, I should explain the significance of Tso Pema and the surrounding mountain and caves. Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) was the Indian master who brought Buddhism to Tibet. He and his consort, Mandarava, lived together and practiced Buddhism in the caves surrounding Tso Pema. So these caves, therefore, are sacred sites. The lake itself is an interesting story. Mandarava was an indian princess and her father was less than pleased that his daughter was off gallavanting with some Indian Guru, and sent his guards to arrest both of them. He then had them burned at the stake, or rather, he tried. According to Tibetan Buddhist lore, the lake of Tso Pema spontaneously formed around the two of them, extinguishing the fire.

We climbed up the mountain (me in a chupa...bad idea) and hung prayer flags, which are EVERYWHERE on these mountains. There were pilgrims from all over, but there was an expecially large group from Bhutan, led by a young monk (probably late 20s) named Tashi Wangdi. First we visited the cave where Guru Rinpoche and Mandarava lived. We then visited a smaller cave, which is said to be where Guru Rinpoche did his private practice and there is a distinct shape in the stone wall of a footprint, said to be made by Guru Rinpoche himself.

All of the rocks are carved with mantras, some very small and faded after many years of exposure, some are huge, painted letters, several stories tall, carved into the mountain face.

While walking, I found many lungta, prayers printed on paper that are thrown off of high mountains. I collected them, then climbed to the top of the second mountain where a very old lama was sitting. I shared the Lungta with him and we threw the off the mountain.

We then walked down the mountain to a rock tunnel. This tunnel is another interesting part of the land. Although I don’t know the history behind it, it is a short (perhaps 10-15 feet) tunnel naturally formed in the rock. It is very tight and absolutely pitch black. They say that you should climb through it and if you have a great deal of negative Karma, the tunnel will pull tight and catch you in it, but if you get through, it creates good merit, or strips you of the negativity. Well, the rest of my group was too scared to go through, but I figure if I am not gonna get down and dirty a bit, well, where is the adventure? I was quite scared, and wearing my Amdo Chupa (which wraps kind of like a glorified bathrobe.) Tashi Wangdi was going ahead of me and told me to follow him and talked me through it (tight, pitch black tunnel that you literally need to wriggle through. You can’t even crawl!) But I made it through. My Chupa, however, decided to try and unwrap. So once we reached an area with light I had to yell at Tashi to CLOSE HIS EYES! But I readjusted my Chupa and they helped me climb out (it’s a hard climb out, since you have to climb up on rocks without footholds and I was in a long dress.)

We went back to the lake and got a wonderful lunch of momos at the Phunda restaurant and then spent the afternoon wandering around. I played some music and found someone to restring my Mala. Then I ewnt to the Drukpa Kagyu Gonpa to watch some girls from Suja TCV practicing Khampa dancing for Losar. A nice man who works making Mani Stones at the gonpa took me around Tso Pema lake ot show me different sites that I had missed. We visited all three Gonpas in the area and a small shrine for an image of Jetsun Drolma (green Tara) that reportedly arose from the rock without anyone making it. We also went to the private cave of Mandarava, which is cared for by an elderly nun. She showed an indentation, supposedly created by Guru Rinpoche leaning against the wall and also an indentation in the rock distinctly in the shape of fingers, gripping very strongly. She says this was where Mandarava grabbed the rock so hard it melted in her grip as her fathers soldiers were taking her to be burned at the stake.

I met the others for dinner with Indian food (including breaking some of the safer food rules) and then an evening Kora, then we went to sleep.

The next morning I remembered in VERY PAINFUL TERMS why if you haven’t done full prostrations in several months, you shouldn’t start with 108. My knees and forehead were bruised and muscles all sore. But considering I was making this pilgrimage on behalf of a friend in need (who asked me to say prayers for him) and I had promised myself I would do the prostrations everyday, I met my body’s demands halfway and did 108 half prostrations on the lake. HIDEOUSLY PAINFUL. But worth it. I brought the other’s to Mandarava’s cave and then we just did our own thing for a while. I bought 2 beautiful necklaces at VERY good prices (speaking the local dialect of Tibetan is the best bargaining tool ever.) Another great bargaining tool was the shop owner promising me a 100 RS discount if I played music at his shop for a little while to attract customers. :-) It was fun.

I visited my friend Sumir who is staying at the Drikung Kagyu Gonpa and had a brief audience with Ongtrul Rinpoche. Then Sumir and I met the others for lunch and after lunch, us students piled into Ji’s cab and we headed back to Sarah. They adored Didi, but who doesn’t? And they all had a great time. I was PAINFULLY sore, but again, totally worth it.

The ride back to Sarah took 4 hours, due to good traffic, with a stop for buffalo milk chai on the way. I need buffalo milk in the USA. Don’t know where I can get it though. Then after dinner, the Emory students hosted a party with fun games as a way to meet the Sarah students. I was totally and utterly drained, so I played, but sort of on the edges. It wasn’t an issue for me, though, since I have not had a hard time meeting Sarah students, especially when you consider my lack of a language barrier.
 
 
31 January 2007 @ 06:50 am
1/24/2007

Guesthouse, IBD, Sarah, Dharamsala

This is likely the last (or second to last time) I will write from the IBD guesthouse. I am moving into my roommates room either tomorrow or the day after. There is a brief question about who my roomate is.

Katie was placed with a Buddhist nun from Amdo who speaks no, literally NO, English. Sangmo’s english is limited but it is existant. Katie speaks no, literally NO, Tibetan. I speak it pretty comfortably. It is possible that Katie and I will switch, but I don’t know for sure yet.

A few interesting things happened yesterday after I got on the net, so I want to write about them on here. First of all, when I was walking over to load this onto the net, I was destracted by a guy on a DAMN NICE motorbike. (Sorry, dad, I don’t remember what make.) The guy saw I was wearing an SFT T-shirt and I mentioned that I had been involved with SFT for about 6 years now. Upon hearing this he extended his hand to me and explained that he was Choeying, head of SFT India! Then he asked if I was Amalia (yeah, way too many Tibetans know who I am) because apparently Passang la had told him that one of the students was big into activism.

We were joking about the shirts and I mentioned that I wore it to the Himalayan Live concert. “This under a chupa” I said “Right on stage in front of a few thousand Tibetans and Nepalis. Showing SFT pride up on the stage” and he goes “Wait, you were PERFORMING with them?!” I guess Passang la hadn’t told him that part. So I ran upstairs and grabbed a copy of my CD and gave it to him. He told me “This is exactly what we want!” and explained that this coming Friday (January 26th, the anniversary of the incarceration of Tulku Tenzin Delek Rinpoche) there would be a rally at the Tsuglagkhang, or the Dalai Lama’s main temple, in support of Tenzin Delek Rinpoche. There would be speeches in Tibetan, letter and petition signing, and performances by different Tibetan singers. Choeying asked me to sing some freedom songs. So I am singing Tso Ngeunbo (the last verse of which says “In order to fight for freedom, Tibetan youth must study hard,) and Zog Nit Keyn Mol, which is an amazing song of freedom and resistance from the Jews of the Warsaw ghetto and is very special to me.

By the way, writing that paragraph reminded me I needed to call Choeying. It turns out that today he was with Lhasang Tsering, former armed-resistance freedom fighter (Chushi Kangdruk) and former president of TYC, a man who I admire greatly. Choeying showed him my CD and Lhasang la was so impressed that he asked to keep the CD. Apparently his wife commented that she felt shame in being a Tibetan who could not sing Tibetan songs and they were so thrilled to hear a westerner singing in Tibetan. To get that good a reaction from Lhasang Tsering is making me so happy.

Anyway, after posting my last gigantic post and photos and everything I went to watch basketball. I ended up talking with Lobsang Gelek, the amazing singer from Kham who wanted to ask me a favor. Apparently, this sunday is Gonkar Rinpoche’s birthday. Gonkar Rinpoche is a Karma Kagyu Rinpoche at Sherab Ling, Tai Situ Rinpoche’s monastery. The monastery is located in Bir, about two hours away, which is a Tibetan settlement entirely filled with Khampas. Lobsang had been invited to perform along with a few other students from Sarah and wanted to know if I would sing as well! I am thrilled and will definitely be singing.

Today, morning class was an assault of VERBSSSSSSSSSS, yes, verbs, verbs, verbs. Random note: coconut crunchies are the best cookies ever. We then had philosophy class, which Geshe la always starts off with 10 minutes of meditation. This is good because it means that at a bare minimum I am meditating twice a week. Once I move in with my roomate (and therefore start regularily attending morning prayers, I will also be trying to attend daily meditation for half an hour.

Lunch was....icky. I think every other day is rice and vegetables, and every other day is tingmo and curries. I prefer tingmo days, hence the need for coconut crunchies right about now. Yiga from Amdo and Lobsang Delek are helping me to translate Zog nit keyn mol and a brief explination about it’s history into Tibetan so that I can explain it to the crowd at the tsuglagkhang.

In afternoon class, we read another childrens story. This one was easier. Hopefully this means my reading is improving. Once afternoon class finished, Alex and I headed up to mcleod. I grabbed Gyeltsen from the roof of the tsongkha and alex and I switched money then bought cell phones. I don’t expect to be using it much, but if you are doing any travel in India (such as being shuttled around to random shows) it really pays to have one so you can call back to the group and tell them where the heck you are! (I just loaded my otter box with coconut crunchies. Are we noticing a pattern in today’s post?)

I ran some errands for Amber and Dan then went to the tailors to pick up my 2 new chupas, which are LOVELY. I will try to take photos. One is a plain, shimmery pink with a black blouse. The other is green embroidered silk. I ordered 2 more for the upcoming concerts (at $15-25 a pop, I decided my stupid money is going to dresses.) I do need to order any dresses I want between now and March NOW, because with Losar coming up it is going to get more complicated.

Sadly, by the time I got out of the tailor, the Gyuma (Tibetan Blood Sausage) seller on the street had closed for the day (I know street food is off limits, but I somehow think being fried in boiling oil does alot to kill bacteria, and yes, they fry it in front of you.) My desire for food that actually makes you FULL (you know, with some sort of protein?) was getting pretty strong, so rather than make Kora, we went to get a few momo.

By the end of that, it was time for Alex and I to get back to Sarah, so we started to walk up to the Taxi stand. I always wonder, while walking, if I will run into someone I know from home. So I was utterly horrified to see a person who I have had the misfortune to come to know in America. In fact I saw him only 3 weeks ago in New York City at one of my shows. He is, and half the Tibetans in the world will agree with me, a horrible person on several different counts. I despise him on both a political and personal level. Not only has he made accusations against and insulted people and organizations who I am friends with or affiliated with, he has done some rather “interesting” things to me as well. Things which, in future encounters, he has only added to.

He has also attempted to take sexual advantage of a few of my friends. Do something against me, I might be able to forgive you. Hurt my friends? That is another matter entirely.

There are some people you don’t want to run into half a world away from home. And there are some people who you are so furious to run into when you thought that being 7000 miles away would put some distance between you that you are angered to a point of near tears and feel sick to the stomach. He is one of the latter.

I remained rather shaken from the encounter. And since (as I later learned) he tends to sexually target American students with an interest in Tibet, I am pulling aside the girls later to give them the heads up.

Then while eating dinner, and in a rather bad mood from all of this (7000 friggen miles away and he has to friggen show up in DHARAMSALA???) one of the monks from Sarah comes in and asks me if I know Didi from New York! He then pulls me outside where, lo and behold, Dhondhup (aka Didi, or the guy who took my mom’s shoes) from Ithaca, is standing on the Sarah porch! I was so thrilled to see him. He is staying in Tso Pema (about 4 hours away, where Padmasambhava was born) and has invited me to come visit. I think that seals my plans for next weekend! I am so excited to see Tso Pema!

Then, it just so happens that Passang bought aprojector while in Delhi. All of Sarah gathered together in the main shrine of the monastery and we watched “Narnia.” It was actually really interesting to listen to the Tibetans and watch their reaction. First of all, our mythical creatures are totally different from their’s (centaurs, mermaids, griffens) and so that was strange to them. Also they are much more vocal and emotional in response to movies. It was a ton of fun to watch with them.

That over, I came back to the room, washed some clothing and called Choeying as mentioned before. I might plug this online tomorrow (I think Monday and Thursday will be my internet days.)

1/25/2007

Sarah College, Girls Dormitory

Yet another exciting day. Really, things don’t seem to be slowing down here at all. In the morning, as usual, I had grammer class, which is always pretty boriung and somewhat confusing for me. It involves a lot of listing of verbs and just trying to get spelling right. And spelling in Tibetan is evil. Unfortunately, this is one of the classical Asian styles of teaching where the teacher lectures and the class simply copies down whatever he or she says. So I am not getting to practice writing sentences with the words I am learning. Hopefully continuing to read will help me more with my reading.

I found out in the afternoon that I would actually be moving in with the nun. her name is Dechen Dolma, and she is from Tso Ngeun, Amdo (known to English speakers as lake Kokonor.) Since she does not speak any English as of yet, I was placed with her and my roomate who speaks some English was given to another girl who as of yet doesn’t speak Tibetan.

Culture class was about the concept of sacred space. It was interesting but ran an entire half an hour too long, so by the time we arrived in the cafeteria basically everyone had already left. It was OK, but kind of disappointing because I really like chatting with the other students. I ended up chatting with Yega (formerly, and incorrectly, spelled Yiga,) and we decided that he would teach me dance steps to the song “trey yong” (’phrad byung) if I would teach himthe words to Lhendzom (lhan ‘dzom.) So on Sunday in Bir, we will probably perform Lhendzom together and I will sing Trey Yong solo, with some snazzy dance steps. We decided to meet at four o’clock to practice.

In the afternoon, we played some games in language class and I was put with a Tuvan boy named Chechen. We had to take shuffled words and form them into coherent sentences. Chechen and I actually did pretty well.

After this I edited some music on the computer for the performance in Bir then went over to the basketball court to wait for Yega. Sichoe came over to talk to me and asked if I was free the second day of Losar to perform at an Ani Gonpa (Nunnery.) I said hta ti was pretty sure that I was free. He then told me that he wanted me to come sing and that a whole group of Sarah students would be performing and that the Karmapa would be coming to watch! The Karmapa is the head of the Karma Kagyu school of Buddhism, the school that I follow. I was just in total shock! I pulled aside the program coordinators and explaine dhte situation and they agreed that even if there were other activities that day, this was something I COULD NOT MISS and therefore it would be OK for me to go. I am so excited! I am supposed to sing Yi Re Kyo and possibly Lhendzom. I might also learn a few dances with the school dance troupe to perform. I was totally freaking out over this.

Then Yega came over and we went onto the roof of the class building and practiced singing and dancing up there. It is actually a very good location. There aren’t too many people and it’s out of the way. You are less likely to attract a whole swarm of people. We are also going to practice on saturday before heading out to Bir on sunday. And Gyeltsen also called to tell me that he found a kham chupa for me. YAY!

Unfortunately, when I was with Yega, I realized that I had lost my necklace blessed by the Karmapa. Fortunately I just found it while unpacking just now.

After dinner, Amber was giving funky haircuts. It was actually really cool because she has this amazing way of doing totally unconventional, but utterly awesome haircuts. I wouldn’t let her touch mine though. I want to grow mine out.

At 9:30, Dechen and Sangmo came over and we moved me into Dechen’s room. I am almost entirely unpacked, but I didn’t want to do all of it right now.

I can’t really think of much else, so I am going to close up and go to sleep.

1/29/2007
Monday

Basketball Court @ Sarah, IBD

Yes, I am getting lazy. it is official. have not written for three days and, since I appear to have lost my flash drive, it is likely that this won’t go online for a while. Oh well.

So let me see if I can actually remember anything that has happened for the past three days. On Friday I had class in the morning. Tibetan language class, I find, is actually pretty boring for me. I am used to a more interactive language class and i truly feel that an interactive language class is necesary in order to try and learn any language. I am sure it is helping me, but it just doesn’t feel lik,e that.

After language, we had a discussion group. Since a lot of people still had to move into their rooms, the discussion group was left relatively short so as to provide time to move. It asw a fascinating discussion on Buddhist philosophy mostly.

In the afternoon, we took Sumo cabs, as we call them, to Mcleod to the new reception center. There we met Ama Adhe, former armed freedom fighter with the Khampa resistance, and 27 year political prisoner. She now runs the new reception center. Gen Norsang la was brought along to translate, but when Ama Adhe started speaking, in relatively heavy Khamke, he couldn’t understan her at all. I could hardly hold in my laughter because she was speaking virtually the same dialect that all of the monks visiting my house speak and so I was getting every word. Passang ended up translating.

As much as I admire Ama Adhe (and I may even post the english tranlsation of her talk) I disagree with the change in her stance, from Rangzen (complete freedom) to that of genuine autononmy. I would agree with the stance of autonomy if it were even slightly feasible, but the fact of the matter is it is NOT feasible. Anything that relies on the continued goodwill of the CCP government is doomed to failure.

When the talk ended, we rushed over to the Tsuglagkhang for the Tenzin Delek Rinpoche freedom Rally. I met up with Choeying from SFT who introduced me to Tenzin Tsundue, the famous Tibetan freedom activist whpo once hung a banner off of the building where (the vice) president Hu Jintao was staying. Pretty impressive in my opinion. He is such an extreme activist that when (now) president Hu Jintao came ot vcisit India this year, he was placed under house arrest in Dhasa.

I sang Yi Re Kyo (Nyin Da Kar Sum) by Kunga and Zog Nit Keyn Mol (a Jewish resistance song) and the audience greatly appreciated it, to my pleasure. After singing, I walked over to choeying, who was on the phone with an odd look on his face. “Someone over at the T-shirt table knows you” he said.

I walked over and lo and behold, it was Dhondup Shyalpatsang, from Free Tibet Action Camp 2003! He moved to India not long after camp and, what with him not telling me that, we fell out of touch. And here he was in Dharamsala. He apparently saw me on the stage, recognized the name and called Choeying! I was so thrilled, I just kept hugging him. I ran into a lot of people who had heard of me or who recognized me from the photo in the magazine.

After the rally, Tsundue, Dhondup, a New York Tibetan named Tsering and I all went to Jimmy’s Italian Kitchen for snacks and (in my case) dinner. You know, they make a damn good pepperoni pizza there. I had a craving for meat and western style cheese. Talk about joy. I think I am going to have to go back.

On the cab ride back, I sat with Phuntsok Tsering, the founder and director of Thangtong Lhugar Tibetan Performing Arts school, which is the school right near Sarah. He told me in no uncertain terms that I was to show up at the school at 10 AM the next morning because, although my sound was very good, my technique was not (I learnt most of my dranyen by teaching myself. I have no proper technique) and if I was going to FINALLY have a teacher, he wanted to guarantee that the teacher would be from a proper school! Apparently Thangtong Lhugar has a good reputation, second to TIPA.

I called Yega and we met in a classroom to practice our song for sunday. Unfortunately I have been suffering from relatively bad dizzy spells, so I was not in a veyr good mood, but we made reasonable progress.

So, saturday morning, I woke up for morning prayers (Yega had been bugging me about not going) and then went back to sleep until 9:15. Then I got dressed and headed over to Thangtong Lhugar. Phuntsok helped restring my loaner Dranyen and then brought over a girl named Choekyi to teach me Nangma Toeshey, a style of classical dranyen. I really do not like Nangma Toeshey, but it is important for learning technique. I mastered the first section pretty quickly and so we headed on to drukshey, or the super fast second part of every song. I have never been able to get drukshey, but with Choekyi’s masterful instruction, I was able to recognizably, if not actually well, play a drukshey. It is a difficult task, especially considering I really don’t actually like nangma or toeshey.

By the way, nothing makes you conscious of how much our life revolves around bodily functions like moving to a country with squat toilets.

I went back for lunch at Sarah and after lunch, Yega and I met and practiced singing for a while on top of the guesthouse. It was a good place for privacy mostly, wiht only a few interruptions. The Yega had to get dinner and afterwords we went into one of the classrooms and practiced with some of the other students for a whlie. After I had dinner there was some more practice. I was in serious need of some real food (the lunches here leave so much to be desired) and so we went to the canteen where I got tenthuk and they got chowmein and soutsemein. I didn’t know we had a canteen!!!!

Sunday...ohhhhh sunday. Sunday morning I slept in for a while, which was very very nice, then went for a walk with Alec, one of my Tuvan classmates, and Yega. We walked up into the town of Sarah, which is a couple of miles, and got chai and then walked back. Then Yega, Tom, Yonden Gonpo and I all went to the canteen for lunch. I just did not want to get lunch at the dining hall again. That would not make me happy.

In Mcleod on friday, Gyeltsen managed to get me a dress from Kham but it was just too simple and too short to wear in Bir (not short as in miniskirt, short as in Tibetan dresses should go well past the ankles.) So I went back to my room, got changed into my amdo chupa, and was heading out at 1:30 to get to the taxi before 2 when Yega calls me telling me to rush. But Tibetans are never on time! What was this?!?! I call Karen and tell HER to rush and before long the two of us are running to get into the Taxi. 10 people in a jeep. It’s what India is all about. Fortunately, Karen and I were given front seat. Karen and I enjoyed the ride immensely, having great philosophical discussions (in fact, Karen kept pulling out her recorder to catch bits of it.)

Two hours and a few wrong turns later, we arrived in Sherabling, Tai Situ Rinpoche’s monastery in Bir. I still wasn’t sure WHICH Rinpoche’s birthday it was, but I knew it wasn’t Situ’s. We drove into a big field, surrounded by Indian style cloth walls and tents. In one tent was a huge, as in about 10 layer, cake with a big sign wishing Bo Gangkar Rinpoche a happy 25th birthday. In the field, young monks were having a football (for Americans, soccer) competition and a volleyball competition, and all of the Sarah students and I were treated to sweet tea and cookies. Michael (Aka Tenzin Gyalpo) from Delhi showed up to perform as well and he is a comedian so we were having a fantastic time just chatting.

The entire event was being filmed by an Indian film crew and we had a severe case of “White girl in a Chupa Syndrome” (WGCS) were the film crew kept stopping by me and Karen.

After dinner, we offered Khatags to Bo Gangkar Rinpoche, who I recognized immediately upon seeing him. I was one of very few non-Himalayans there so he greeted me in English, to which I responded in Tibetan. Definitely got an eyebrow up.

After dinner, Rinpoche cut the cake and......everyone decided to loosen up even a bit more. See, rinpoche bought all the little monks and nuns (HUNDREDS of them) sparkley party hats and cans of foam and silly string, which the monks and nuns ran around with spraying everyone with in the absolute definition of rambunctiousness. Rinpoche, being only 25, is far from being stiff and formal. Cake, foam, funny hats, and sports competitions (which Rinpoche then gave trophies for the winning teams) made for one of the best birthday parties I have ever been to.

The performances were pretty good, but, unfortunately, the sound system was HORRIBLE. Everyone loved it anyway, but it made it very difficult to sing. I am still proud of how I did, but I was very unhappy with the sound quality. One mic was defective and kept cutting out or making bad noises. The Sarah students were loved by the crowd. There were also a group of students from Suja (Tibetan Childrens’ Village) who were all originally from Muenya, Kham. During some of the pop songs they would run up to the stage and start doing high-speed traditional Khampa dancing. It was FANTASTIC.

Rinpoche was having a great time. When I wasn’t on stage I could see him laughing and smiling. I also saw the Karmapa’s sister there.

At the end, after all the performances were done, Rinpoche presented all of us singers each with a HUGE (9 foot long) khatag, Sherabling monastery sports jersey, a Kagyu Tibetan 12 month calender, a laminated photo of Situ Rinpoche and an envelope. I didn’t look in the envelope until today, but it felt...thick. It contained 980 (although the envelope said 1000, someone made off with 20 from each envelope probably...that really makes me laugh!) rupees. that’s about $25 USD, but in spending terms, 20 full dinners in Mcleod (appetizer, tea, dinner) or one full length, personally tailored, fancy silk Tibetan dress. In short, nothing to be sneezed at. I am probably going to donate a chunk to the SFT here in India. It was an unexpected windfall, although I have found out that it was expected by pretty much everyone except me. I find it interesting that I probably get paid more for singing here (at least value wise) than I do in the USA! I actually felt very awkward recieving money for it, but it is normal.

at midnight we jammed ourselves back into the jeep and all fell asleep on each other for the ride back. We arrived back at 2 AM, totally exhausted.

This morning, i was planning on waking up for morning prayers, but after only getting 4 hours of sleep, that was just not going to happen. Morning class was, well, morning class. Philosophy was great though! We are now being taught by a German nun named Ani Kelsang Wangmo, and she is enthusiastic and teaches in a more western style, which I prefer.

Unfortunately, my roommate was feeling pretty sick to her stomach today (although not throwing up, thank goodness) so I had lunch with Dhondup, Yega, Tom and Lucy today. After lunch, Yega, Tom and I all got tea at the canteen. Afternoon class was alright and then I took a nap, which i really really needed. For some reason, in the afternoon, 3 Tuvan students grabbed me and brought me over to Thangtong Lhugar. I am still not sure why. Then I came back to campus, sent some e-mails, got dinner, did homework, got some tea with some friends and came back to my room.

Dechen, Ani Choenzin and I watched Tibetan music videos and chatted for a while and then I finished this up, because goodness knows I really needed to update. Anyway, it is nearly midnight and I AM going to get up for morning prayers tomorrow if it kills me!!!

Things to remember to write about tomorrow:

Barefootedness
Men and Chocolate (and chocolate in general)
Some other things that I cannot remember


1/30/ 2007
Tuesday
Girls hostel, Sarah College

So, the points from last time.

Barefootedness. In Thailand, shoes came off upon entering a house, bedroom, temple, dormitory, and even classroom. I assumed that we would keep shoes on in the classroom here but that shoes would come off at the door of the bedroom at least. Well, I was right about the classroom, and shoes coming off in the temple, but apparently the temple is the only place where having one’s shoes off is acceptable! Even wandering around our clean room, if I try to even take one step off my bed without slippers on, my roommate looks at me in horror and passes me her slippers, because obviously, if I don’t have slippers on, it’s because I don’t own them. And we are talking just for me to walk the 1 meter from my bed to my shelves. She firmly believes that walking barefoot will make me sick.

Men and chocolate. Well, in Tibetan society, Chocolate is a girls food. Men don’t eat it. In fact a lot of men here cannot understand how American men can like chocolate! They think it’s really really strange that Americans in general will crave chocolate and even stranger that men will voluntarily eat it. One of my Tibetan friends in America once broke up with a girlfriend over chocolate (he wouldn’t eat it.)

Other news: bucket showers hear are glorious in comparison to Thailand. We don’t have hot water showers but we do have ONE hot water tap per floor. Fill big bucket with hot water, have a wonderful bucket shower. I feel awesome.

I spoke to Geshe la this morning about Tibetan language class and how I don’t realy feel like I am getting anything out of it. He said to ride it out for the rest of the week and if I still feel unsatisfied to talk to him again and we will work something out.

For culture class, Geshe la discussed Tibetan visualization meditation and taught and led us in the purification meditation of Vajrasattva (Dorje Sempa) (By the way, I am going to mostly be using Tibetan, versus the sanskrit names which are used more frequently in America.) I had recieved the empowerment of Vajrasattva about a year and a half ago from Garchen Rinpoche but never recieved clear, guided instruction. Geshe la led this like a guided meditation, making it very easy to follow and pleasurable to do! He said that if we are interested, he will later teach Chenrezig (Avalokiteshvara) and Tonglen (giving and recieving practice.) For the latter, he noted that the text is usually sung and proposed to me that I take the song and re-compose it for dranyen. Sounds like an interesting idea.

I ate too much at breakfast, at it was fried food, so I was feeling a bit ill at lunch and skipped out. I took a nap instead. I did wake up for morning prayers so I was pretty darn exhausted! Afternoon Tibetan class was OK.

After that Yega, Will, Lucy, Julia, Katie and I all headed to Mcleod. I returned the kham chupa to Gyeltsen, tried to fix my phone (and failed) got some gyuma (To hell with the street food ban! It’s DELICIOUS!) and dropped my publicity photos off fo the concert posters. Then Yega and I made Kora (Gyeltsen was hung over and just couldn’t do it!)

On the way, I ran into Choeying (SFT India president) Tenchoe, (SFT India other high-up) Tsering (SFT India alternate high-up) Ani Kalsang Wangmo (my Buddhism teacher) and Tenzin Tsundue (mentioned earlier.) I also once again passed on the road the certain person who I despise. Apparently he has the common sense even when passing 6 inches away from me not to acknowledge or try to talk to me. Yega pointed out something I couldn’t hear, which was the fact that since my Tsuglagkhang performance, everyone on the street is commenting on the inji-bhumo who sings.

Then Yega, Lucy, Julia and Katie headed back but Will and I headed to Jimmy’s italian kitchen. Sometimes western food is good. While there, Mangtoe from SFT, Tibetan Youth Congress and the guy who needed my publicity photos came in. It turns out I was also sitting right behind the president of the National Democratic Party of Tibet. So I made a lot of good contacts and spoke to Mangtoe for a while about Tibetan typing fonts, since he teaches computers here, and also computer security. (Little shout out to my brother is necesary here. I think Mangtoe is taking this more seriously! Further correspondences will follow!)

A cute little cat snuck into the restaurant and stole the bulk of Will’s food (although, fortunately, will was already done.) and then Mangtoe helped us get a good deal on a cab and we headed back to Sarah.

I worked a bit on homework then at 9:00 joined Gonpo, Sichoe, Palkyi, Yega, Bhutse, Karma and the other performers to rehearse for our performance for the Karmapa. Palkyi said that if I can pick up the dances, I can join those too! Yaaaaaaay. So now I am trying to learn Ladakhi dance and maybe one modern Tibetan dance.

Tharchin, editor of TibetToday magazine gave me the unedited version of my interview, which I proceeded to correct vigorously. There is an issue with conducting this sort of interview, which is, if a person does not speak English as a first language and you are listing English instruments, they are bound to come up with some pretty interesting things. My favorite thus far was Tharchin’s interpretation of Hammer Dulcimer and penny whistle:

TIBETODAY: What are the other instruments you are familiar with?
Amalia: Dranyen, Mandolin, Hammerdorf Snar dorf, an instrument very similar to Yangchen, Penny vessel and I used to study piano also.

I laughed so hard when I read that, I had tears streaming down my face and could not stop laughing because every time I looked at it, I totally lost it! Meanwhile everyone around me is trying to figure out what the hell is going on and I just cannot translate this! Even now looking at it I keep breaking down laughing. Hammerdorf Snar dorf!! Thank you, Tharchin, for making my day a little bit more funny.

After dance practice I came back to my dormitory, took a nice hot bucket shower and now I am going to sleep! goodnight!
 
 
23 January 2007 @ 05:22 pm

Rajghat, the site of Mahatma Gandhi's cremation

More photos from India )
 
 
23 January 2007 @ 05:09 pm
Further updates from India )
 
 
 
 

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